In June 2024, I was invited on a truly special trip to the heart of France’s Beaujolais region. Renowned for its picturesque vineyards, charming countryside, lovely people, and exceptional wine, Beaujolais has quickly become one of my favourite places to visit. Here’s a detailed account of my trip, complete with recommendations on where to stay, what to see, and how to indulge in the best of Beaujolais wines and cheeses.
Day 1:
Arrival and Lunch at Ema Restaurant
My adventure began with a smooth flight landing at Lyon Saint-Exupéry Airport at 11:05 AM. After a brief 50-minute taxi ride, I arrived at the beautiful Ema Restaurant in Deux Grosnes for lunch. Nestled at 168 Route du Fût d’Avenas, Ema offers incredible food that perfectly balances rustic charm and fine French cuisine. Their menu, inspired by local produce and flavours, set the tone for the incredible food on the trip to come.
Tour and Tasting at Chiroubles Maison du Cru
Post-lunch, I headed to Chiroubles Maison du Cru for a wine tour and tasting session. Chiroubles, one of the 12 appellations of Beaujolais, is famed for its light and fruity wines. Not one that I was as familiar with but you can’t argue with delicious 2 euro wine! The tour provided an insightful look into the wine-making process, highlighting the region’s unique terroir that imparts distinctive characteristics to its wines.
Check-in at Château de Pizay
At 5:30 PM, I checked in at Château de Pizay, a stunning historical château located at 443 Route du Château in Belleville en Beaujolais. Staying at this château is a must, with its elegant rooms and sprawling vineyards, serves as the perfect base for exploring the region. They also have a stunning swimming pool overlooking the vines, beautiful sculped garden and a spa. Its website, chateau-pizay.com, offers more details on their luxurious accommodations.
Dinner at Château de Vaux
Dinner at Château de Vaux was a highlight of the day. Situated a short drive away, this beautiful château provided a sumptuous meal prepared by Yannick de Vermont. The dinner featured an array of local dishes paired with exquisite Beaujolais wines, encapsulating the essence of the region’s culinary and vinous heritage. We dined in an old room in the chateau which resembled a cave! Very atmospheric.
Dinner at Château de Vaux
Dinner at Château de Vaux was a highlight of the day. Situated a short drive away, this beautiful château provided a sumptuous meal prepared by Yannick de Vermont. The dinner featured an array of local dishes paired with exquisite Beaujolais wines, encapsulating the essence of the region’s culinary and vinous heritage. We dined in an old room in the chateau which resembled a cave! Very atmospheric.
Day 2: Exploring the Vineyards
Breakfast and Morning Wine Tour
The day began with a continental breakfast at Château de Pizay. Following breakfast, I joined Romain Schneider for a tour of the stunning gardens and tasting session at Domaine du Château de Pizay. The tour delved into the estate’s history and its winemaking traditions, offering tastings of some of their best vintages, including a delicious white Beaujolais Chardonnay. This lesser-known gem from the region showcases the versatility of Beaujolais beyond its famed reds, offering crisp acidity and vibrant fruit flavours. I was absolutely delighted to learn that Chateau de Pizay wines can be bought in Magestic in the UK and I would highly recommend grabbing yourself a bottle, or two!
Lunch at Château des Moriers
Lunch at Château des Moriers was another beautiful chateau, you’ll see there is a theme here! The estate’s picturesque setting, coupled with a menu of local specialties and wines. A local Lebanese chef from Lyon came in to make us lunch and it was great to enjoy these wines with a different type of food. The lightness paired well with grilled lamb and chicken and not to mention the delicious hummus, and smaller dishes. The eating style was relaxed and the weather was beautiful. There was also a huge cheeseboard which made me very happy! We met some Americans at the lunch from a Beaujolais wine society in New York. I loved learning about the global love for the wine and these are friends I know we will stay in touch with.
Afternoon Leisure and Evening Tasting
The afternoon was spent leisurely exploring the grounds of Château de Pizay. I also treated myself to an afternoon at the spa. At 6:15 PM, I met Cécile in the lobby and headed to Château de Bellevue for an evening vineyard tasting and dinner. Château de Bellevue’s wines, known for their complexity and depth, paired beautifully with the gourmet dinner, creating a perfect end to the day.
Day 3: Final Tastings and Departure
Breakfast and Final Tastings
Sunday started with a hearty breakfast at Château de Pizay. With luggage packed, I met Cécile at 10:00 AM and embarked on a journey to explore several of Beaujolais’ appellations. The day included a lunch at Domaine de Colette and tastings at various renowned appellations such as Beaujolais, Beaujolais Villages, Brouilly, Côte de Brouilly, Régnié, Morgon, and more. Each stop offered a unique insight into the diversity of Beaujolais wines. In some charming local spots, I discovered that a glass of excellent Beaujolais wine could be enjoyed for just 2 euros—a testament to the region’s accessibility and value.
Beaujolais Wine and Pairings
Key Grape Varieties
Beaujolais is synonymous with the Gamay grape, which produces light-bodied, fruity red wines with vibrant acidity. This grape thrives in the region’s granitic soils, resulting in wines that are fresh and approachable yet capable of remarkable complexity, especially from the Beaujolais Crus. Additionally, the region also produces some exceptional white wines from the Chardonnay grape, characterised by their bright acidity and rich fruit flavours.
Cheese Pairings
Beaujolais wines pair wonderfully with a variety of cheeses. Here are some perfect pairings:
- Chiroubles with Brie: The light and floral Chiroubles complements the creamy texture of Brie.
- Morgon with Comté: Morgon’s rich and robust flavors balance beautifully with the nutty, hard texture of Comté.
- Fleurie with Goat Cheese: The delicate and aromatic Fleurie pairs well with the tanginess of goat cheese.
- Brouilly with Reblochon: Brouilly’s fruit-forward profile enhances the creamy and slightly pungent character of Reblochon.
- Beaujolais Chardonnay with Saint-Félicien: The crisp acidity of the Chardonnay cuts through the creamy texture of this soft cheese.
Why Visit Beaujolais Next Year
Visiting Beaujolais during the Bienvenue en Beaujonomie festival is a must for wine enthusiasts and culture seekers alike. This annual event, held in June, celebrates the region’s rich winemaking heritage with open-house events, vineyard tours, and gourmet dinners hosted by local winegrowers. It’s an opportunity to experience Beaujolais’ vibrant culture firsthand, taste exclusive wines, and enjoy traditional Beaujolais cuisine. The festival’s warm, communal atmosphere offers a unique chance to connect with local producers and fellow wine lovers from around the world.
Where to Stay
Château de Pizay
For an authentic and luxurious experience, Château de Pizay is an ideal choice. With its historical charm, modern amenities, and proximity to major attractions, it offers a perfect blend of comfort and elegance. The château’s spa, gourmet restaurant, and expansive grounds ensure a memorable stay.
Conclusion
My trip to Beaujolais was a magical blend of scenic beauty, culinary delights, and exceptional wines. Whether you’re a wine enthusiast or simply looking for a serene getaway, Beaujolais offers a rich tapestry of experiences that will leave you enchanted. The region’s stunning landscapes, combined with outrageously affordable wines—sometimes just 2 euros a glass—make it a must-visit destination. Plan your visit, and let the charm of Beaujolais captivate you as it did me.
Stay connected with the journey by following @beaujolais_wines and visit beaujolais.com for more information.
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